Travel: Hot Tamale Trail
Origin stories of Mississippi tamales differ, but multiple varieties of this Delta staple are available throughout state
While many people think of cotton or fried chicken as staple items of Mississippi, tamales have proven over the years to be just as prominent across the state.
Tamales began thousands of years ago in Mesoamerica and have continuously spread across the world, landing in Mississippi around the turn of the 20th century. Tamales are steamed bundles filled with meat, fruit or other ingredients.
Mississippi tamales have become extremely prevalent in the Mississippi Delta over time, with these tamales typically being made of cornmeal and filled with some type of meat, but many cities and towns across the state fill their restaurants with tamales.
The original tamales were made from a mash of mesa and seasoned meat wrapped in corn husks and steamed in coffee cans, Greater Greenville CEO Deanne New said. New said many believe tamales were a necessity in the diet of 20th century Mexican migrant field workers because they were an inexpensive dish that was easy to transport to the field. The African American workers saw the dish and added their spin to the recipe with different seasonings and the use of corn meal.
“As the meal gained popularity, it began appearing on menus and has transformed into a must-try Delta delicacy,” New said.
David Gammill, owner of Fat Mama’s Tamales in Natchez, said other Mississippi residents have another theory of how tamales became so successful across the state. These people, including him, believe tamales originated from Native American heritage because Native Americans traditionally used corn for many different meals.
“Many towns along the Mississippi River have embraced tamales — Natchez, Baton Rouge, New Orleans, Vicksburg — for as long as people can remember,” Gammill said. “I believe these tamales came from Native Americans, who got their inspiration from Mexico and South American countries.”
As tamales grew in popularity, Visit Mississippi and the Southern Foodways Alliance created the Mississippi Hot Tamale Trail of iconic restaurants that serve tamales across the state, many of which located in the Mississippi Delta.
With restaurants, backdoor kitchens, shacks and food trucks, tamales can be found all across the Delta. Greenville especially has become a hotbed of hot tamales, New said, and tamales have continued to grow in popularity because of their ability to morph into any flavor. They can be seasoned and filled with nearly any meat, wild game, fruit or vegetable, making the possibilities endless.
“While there are many varieties, the traditional beef or pork tamale remains a staple in the Delta because they are just flat out delicious,” New said.
Some of the “must try” tamale restaurants across Mississippi include White Front Café in Rosedale, Delta Fast Food in Cleveland, Walker’s Drive-In in Jackson, Serio’s in Greenwood and Ajax Diner in Oxford, according to Visit Mississippi.
Another place to try Mississippi hot tamales is the Delta Hot Tamale Festival which takes place every fall in Greenville. Dozens of vendors bring their tamales for customers to try, New said, where people can try any and all types of tamales. This year’s festival was held Oct. 14-16.
“We have seen everything from traditional beef to crawfish, venison, spinach and more,” New said. “The masa or ‘crust’ is a traditional mash of maize dough that usually comes from ground corn. The filling can be anything you dream up!”
Eugene Hicks, owner of Hick’s Tamales and BBQ Shop in Clarksdale, another restaurant along the tamale trail, said he grew up learning how to make tamales from his family members and has been making tamales for 65 years. He said his restaurant has become known for its tamales and
“I have many years experience making tamales,” Hicks said. “I’ve perfected my recipe and just love when customers come in to try my tamales.
STORY BY TYLER B. JONES
ILLUSTRATION BY ANNE MURPHY
COURTESY PHOTOS